As I hit the big 3-0 in August (yes 8 months ago at time of writing), I paused to reflect on the epic ride so far—a journey with more ups and downs than a 12 foot day at Pipeline. Here’s what catching life’s waves for three decades has taught me:
1. Resilience is Non-Negotiable: Life's tossed more wipeouts at me than a rookie on a ten-foot wave. From clown-induced traumas at a circus to brutal schoolyard showdowns and heartbreaks that could rival any soap opera, I've learned resilience is not just about getting back on the board; it's about paddling back out with a smirk, ready to show the next wave who's boss.
2. Move with the Currents, Not Against It: I've zigzagged across countries and life paths like a surfer desperate to find surf on windy morning. Adapting to life's winds, from the calm currents to rogue waves, taught me the art of riding with style, even if I'm just trying not to go over the falls.
3. True to Your Compass: Staying true to myself has meant navigating through life with my own quirky compass—sometimes it points South West to "J-bay" or circles around "Nothing to be found today, you're lost" but it always leads me to where I need to be. Authenticity is the secret to catching the best waves and the best vibes.
4. The Independence Odyssey: Independence hit me like a cleanup set on a cold winter morning surf. Managing life alone abroad taught me to cook something vaguely edible, understand that laundry doesn't do itself, and that emotional independence is the ultimate power-up in the game of life.
5. Passion as the North Star: Whether I'm chasing waves, capturing moments, or coding until my brain fries, my passions are the strengths guiding me through riptides. They’re more than hobbies; they're the secret sauce to finding joy in the chaos.
6. Embrace the Wipeouts: I’ve been dragged across life's coral reef more times than I care to admit. But every "fail" was just life’s way of saying, “Plot twist!” These detours taught me that sometimes, you gotta fall off the board to learn how to ride a wave properly.
7. The Complexity of Connections: Navigating human connections is trickier than a backside 360. From the bullies of my past to heartbreaks that span continents, these interactions have taught me the delicate dance of human emotions—where every misstep is a chance to learn something new.
8. Define Your Success: Thirty years in, and I’ve realized success isn't about hitting some societal jackpot. It's about crafting a journey that's as fulfilling as a sunrise surf session with dolphins saying good morning in the lineup. For me, success is measured in moments of joy, bursts of creativity, and the satisfaction of knowing I’ve lived true to myself.
As I look back on these lessons, I see a mosaic of triumphs, faceplants, and everything in between. They remind me that life, much like the ocean, is a wild ride—vast, unpredictable, and utterly exhilarating. With resilience, adaptability, and a dash of humour, I’m ready to catch whatever waves come next, diving headfirst into the magnificent, unpredictable ocean of life.
To the next 30+ years!